Off to Myanmar

Up at 4:15am for a 4:45 taxi to the airport. Airport very busy, we rushed to get our 7:15 flight. There were long waits at the baggage check and at customs.

Flight left about 7:30 and we arrived in Yangon around 8:10. Myanmar is about 30 minutes behind Thailand.

Nice airport! I was surprised. Took taxi from the airport to downtown. $7. We wanted to go to Haven Inn, recommended by Lonely Planet, but taxi driver just wanted us to "check out" the Asia Plaza Hotel, $20/night. We drove by the Shwedagon Paya on the way in, looks very impressive.

As we checked out the room at the Asia Plaza Hotel, our taxi driver also did up an itinerary as a hired taxi for a 12 day trip around Myanmar. We decided to stay at the Asia Plaza, the regular room rate is $35/night, and it's not government run. Our taxi driver came up with a 12 day trip for $650US, too much. That didn't even include our accomodations. We told him we'd think about it and call him.

After checking in, we went walking around. Went to the train station, but it's all Greek to us, and not much there.

Started to do the downtown Yangon walking tour in the Lonely Planet guide. As we walked, I was also expecting locals to start offering black market money exchange, and they didn't disappoint. The official rate is about 450 kyat for $1US. Big hotels will typically give 800 kyat for $1US. Black market rate is about 1000 kyat for $1 US.

A local approached me and offered me 1000 kyat, so I decided to try it. I told him I'd just change $20US, as if he screwed me, it wouldn't be that much lost. He led us to a small shop a number of block away that sold t-shirts. I got 20000 kyat for my $20, and checked out the bills to make sure they seemed ok. One of them had a ripped corner, so they exchanged that one no problem. I guess the true litmus test will be if shops accept the money.

Yangon is very rundown, streets and sidewalks in need or repairs, sewer coverings missing/broken (be careful where you step!) Tons of street vendors selling everything from fruit to sunglasses to toothpaste. Some street vendors are resorting to melting blocks of ice, straining it through a piece of cloth and then selling cups of water for thirsty locals.

Near our hotel are a number of movie theatre's, the locals seem fascinated with them. Lots of locals hanging out, watching previews they show on little tv screen. The theatre's are also showing "National Treasure 2: Book of Secrets" with Nicolas Cage. I assume it's in English with Myanmar subtitles.

Traffic very, very tame here, no speeding, traffic lights respected. Not like Thailand at all. Pedestrians do not have the right of way. You have to make sure to only walk when no cars are coming, or you will get hit.

On the walking tour, we saw Sule Paya, a 2200 year old golden temple located at a huge traffic circle in the middle of Yangon. It was $2 US/person to get in.

Saw lots of government buildings, mostly housed in old British colonial buildings. They are detiorating quickly.

Walked by and went inside the Strand Hotel, Lonely Planet says it's $900/night.

Outside the Strand Hotel, two local kids tried selling us postcards. When it was obvious we weren't buying, they put them away and just started talking with us to practice their english. They spoke excellent english, even thought they'd never been to school.

Stopped at Mahabandoola Garden, with Myanmar's independence obelisk tower. We had to pay 500 kyat each to get in. The government charges foreigners for everything here, it's insane.

There are hadly any foreigners here. On our walking around, less than 10. Surprising.

Stopped at Tokyo Fried Chicken, Myanmar's version of KFC, for lunch. Quite yummy.

We then tried internet, not working.

Back to the hotel about 1:30, we plan to head to the Shwedagon Paya later in the afternoon, it's best seen late in the day as the sun sets. At the hotel, dad crashed on the bed for a couple of hours.

Mom would NOT like it here at all.

Young lovers everywhere here. Lots of young local couples walking around holding hands, arms around each other, hanging out in the parks, snuggling.

About 3:30, went to find Good News Travel, recommended by Lonely Planet as a great source of tour and travel information. He spoke excellent english and told us the front entrance to the train station was on other side of where we were. That's why it made no sense to us. We were in the rear entrance. And he told us that lots of the bus companies sell bus tickets around the entrance to the train station too. We didn't know how to go about getting bus information. He was very, very helpful.

Hotel hallway has musty smell, but the room is fine.

Portable generators sit on the sidewalk providing power to all the buildings and shops when the government power isn't working, which is quite often. Weird!

Some street vendors are selling telephone time. They have a small table with 3 or 4 telephones sitting on them, wired up to the overhead telephone lines. Crazy.

Walked back to the front of the train station, on the way befriended by a young local boy who talked broken english and he took us to the train station. Dad gave him 1000 kyat for his help.

At the train station, we found out it's $5 for a train to Bago, $2 for a bus. We need to decide what to do and where to go.

A little later, dad exchanged $20 at a hotel and got 1070 kyat on the dollar. At the train station, a local offered me 1300 kyat, but I said no. I had heard if you get a really high offer, they're out to screw you.

After the train station, walked to Shwedagon Paya. Very impressive. 7000 kyat to get in. Surprised it wasn't in US dollars. On the walk to Shwedagon Paya, walked by a zoo. I can just imagine how the animals have to live. Probably pretty bad.

At the paya, a monk talked to us, 19 years old, and he's trying desperately to get out of Myanmar. He wants to go to Thailand. He's scared in Myanmar. He was surprised to hear that the rest of the world knew about what happened in September with the protests and the government cracking down.

At 6:30, we took a taxi back to the hotel and had supper at the hotel. Our dumb waiter waited on us hand and foot. As soon as we had drunk half a glass of beer, he would be in there pouring us more. Annoying!

Near our hotel, the black market money exchange buddy is getting annoying too. He constantly hangs around, trying to get us to change more or to let him hire us a car to get around Myanmar. I had to be rude to him and tell him to go away eventually.

Exchanging money on the black market, I feel like I'm doing something bad and I might get caught and go to jail. But it's the only reasonable way!

We went to bed early, we had a long day in the heat.