Saturday, May 12, 2001


Walked to the train station last night to make reservations for a fast (EuroStar) train from Bologna to Naples. We have to pay a supplement to use certain high-speed trains (of which this is one). The supplement was 52,400 Lira, or abot $37.00 for all four of us.

Up at 6:00am to catch a train for Napoli (Naples). We had to switch trains in Bologne to the high speed train.

When we went to went to get on the high speed train in Bologne, we found out the reservation we made was for second class. Ryan inquired about sitting in first class,because our EuroRail passes were first class, and the guy told us if there was room, we could, but we'd probably have to pay more We ended up findin one four seat compartment that had power seats, music in the armrests and such things. Then the canteen guy came by and asked us if we wanted anything, and that it would be free. Then the ticket guy came and figured out the difference we had to pay. 25,000 Lira, about $18.00 total. We were expecting a minimum of 100,000 Lira.

We decided to have a 3-course meal on the dining car. When we sat down,we overheard some Americans at another table say something like, "Oh no,those guys look like they can't afford this." We got a kick out of that.

Got to Naples and made it to the hostel and booked for 3 nights. Took the subway back downtown and went to the Archeological Museum. They have a lot of the artifacts found at Mt. Vesuvius. Interesting museum. We then walkd to Ciro A Santa Brigada, a restaurant listed in my Fodor's Italy book as having the best in the world. And I ended up not ordering pizza!!! It was late opening up (the owner was at a soccer match),and while we were waiting outside, we started talking to a woman from California. We ended up having supper with her. Dave and Ryan had pizza, Neil and I had riggatoni, and Ruby had fish. The brought out the whole fish for her to inspect before cutting it up. She was not too happy about that...she didn't like the idea of her supper looking back at her. The four of us ended up buying supper for her.

We walked back to the nearest subway station and took it back to our hostel.

Naples...absolutely filthy. It's a pig-stye. Absolute chaos. No one pays any attention to traffic lights. Cars drive on the wrong side of the street. Motorcycles race up and down the sidewalks. Crazy. They actually need traffic cops to direct traffic at intersections that already have traffic lights. Yellow and red means go as fast as you can!!!

We've had a few people help us too. Some are nice, most seem arrogant and upset all the time. We've had quite a few people tell us it's not safe to carry our cameras with us, or help us with directions.

Overall, though, it feels very unsafe.

Word about water. You can either normal water or carbonated water. They ask if you want "gas or no gas" when you order water. That's funny!


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